Has anybody actually replaced a broken key themselves?  Most of the posts here that talk about key removal just say how complicated it is, and to take it to an authorized repair station.  Removing the bottom panel, it looks like the keybed isn’t really removable, it’s an integral part of the chassis, but that the keys can be removed from the top if the front/back panel (display, switches, I/O connectors) are removed or at least rotated upwards, off of the key tops.  Or does it all have to come completely apart?

df

I had to open my Es once when the USB port had loosened up a little..Trust me, there’s a lot of circuitry inside and i wud definitely not reccommend you to go any further..And as far as the keys are are concerned, you’ll have to open up everything, in order to reach the keybed..If you are into electronics you can take a chance bt if u aren’t , i dnt think this wud be a gud idea..Take ur keyboard to a service personnel and let him replace the keys..Much safer tht way, trust me..

From the old Motifator website, I recalled the link below. You will be very happy!

http://www.sninety.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=MoLounge&Number=405548&Forum=All_Forums&Words=salsamac&Match=Username&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=405421&Search=true#Post405548

You will have to click the the link under the word ‘here’ in the first post. They are a series of videos on how to do the job. For some reason I could not successfully link directly to it for you. This website stripped off some of the URL address.

Bob

Thanks for the input, guys...I got a copy of the ES service manual, and the keyboard is removed from the bottom, after removing the back and the main (DM and DMSUB) circuit boards, shields, etc...if you don’t have to actually disconnect all of the signal cables, it shouldn’t be too bad (ex-computer engineer speaking now) - it looks like you just have to move the PCBs/shields back an inch or so, to get at the keyboard support screws...the object of all this is to add some graduated steel weights to the keys, to make for a more piano-like feel...I’ve done this with a couple of other synth-type keyboards, and have been pleased with the results...I suppose I could just get an ES8, but it wouldn’t fit in my car or music room, and I couldn’t lift it anyway…

I’ll let you know how it all works out…

df

Following instructions in the service manual, I took the keyboard out of my ES7 to see about adding weights to the black keys.  It wasn’t all that difficult to disassemble, but there are a lot of screws, and it’s pretty surprising how thin and flexible all the sheet metal parts are when you take things apart (from the solid feel of the instrument, I’d expected heavier pieces, but lighter/less expensive is a good thing).  And the sheer number of parts in the old DX7 keybed is pretty spectacular, no wonder the EX has a new keybed design, but again, the old design has been solid and reliable. 

There wasn’t room at the player end of the black keys to add weights, so I ended up putting small steel weights under the ends of the white keys only.  It doesn’t seem like this makes the black and white keys feel uneven, though; since they both use the same spring, the black keys were maybe a little harder to push down anyway.  I like the feel of the keyboard with the weights attached, and the double-sided tape and the caulking that I used to attach the weights seems to quiet it down a bit, too.

I tried to measure the force required to push down a key, both before and after adding the weights, and on some other keyboard too, for a comparison, but was unable to get any meaningful data.  Keyboard feel is pretty subjective: I’ve always liked the feel of the DX7 keybed; I remember many years ago using my old DX7 MIDIed to other instruments to play piano parts.  It’s a very complicated thing, too: adding weight to the keys increases inertia, but actually lessens the force required to bend the spring, etc.  And if we’re trying to match the mechanical feel of a real piano keybed that has an entirely different mechanism, no springs, etc., who knows?  Somebody must have done some careful analysis of this; has anyone ever seen anything published?  This points to an electrical, computer-controlled solution as the ultimate answer: something like a solenoid under the key to vary the resistance as the key is depressed; then you could match any force/speed ration desired.

df

Where can I get a copy of the service manual, dfahrner?

I downloaded a .pdf from Impact Zone Engineering (Malaysia) at http://www.audioservices.com.my/; or you can buy a printed copy from Yamaha for $40, I think…

df

jlb - 20 April 2009 05:27 PM

Where can I get a copy of the service manual?

Yamaha ES6 / ES7 / ES8 Complete Service Manual including schematics, assembly information, parts lists etc can be obtained in a download version (.pdf) by CLICK HERE FOR SERVICE MANUAL